Wednesday, November 7, 2012

Bird of Paradise




Heritage, Organic, Free Range,Fresh, Frozen, Pastured, Butterball, or Honeysuckle; which Gobbler is right for you?
Each year we deliberate as to whether we should splurge on a Heritage turkey, go mid range with an organic bird, or do as most Americans do and pick up a cheapo supermarket bird, which they practically give away in hopes that you'll buy the rest of your Thanksgiving fixings there. Up until now, my research into these different types of birds has been cursory at best. Blindly assuming that a Heritage, organic, natural or free range bird must be better (if not better tasting, at least better for you) than an industrially raised commodity bird. But why? Could a bird that costs up to $6-$7 per pound really be that much better than one costing 50 - 80% less? Hmmm, time to find out what the actual difference is between these gobblers.



 I started with the most widely sold, readily available, and least expensive turkey, the commodity bird. 99% of all turkeys raised in the United States is the commodity turkey. Butterball, Honeysuckle, Jennie-0, generic labeled brands, and other inexpensive supermarket labels are all industrial commodity birds. These birds are all one variety called 'Broad-breasted White', and have been bred specifically to produce extra white meat (larger breasts), and for rapid growth. The over sized breasts render the birds incapable of flight, natural mating, and as the bird matures it has great difficulty walking. According to the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, without artificial insemination performed by humans, this variety of bird would become extinct in just one generation.
Industrial turkeys are often injected with saline solution and vegetable oils in an attempt to help improve the taste and texture of the meat. These factory farmed birds tend to be dry and tasteless, so cooks have developed a variety of methods to try to improve the taste. Turkeys are now marinated, brined, deep fried and covered with syrups, spices and herbs.

According to Sustainable Table, "They live in unnatural, uncomfortable conditions and are fed a steady diet of grain and supplements like antibiotics, and growth hormones, rather than the grubs, bugs and grasses they should eat. And they reach such extreme weights so quickly their overall development fails to keep pace with their rapidly accruing muscle mass, resulting in severe immune system, cardiac, respiratory and leg problems."

On factory farms, according to Farm Sanctuary, turkeys “frequently have the ends of their beaks and toes cut off without anesthesia - practices known as debeaking and detoeing – to prevent them from injuring one another as they are crowded by the thousands into dark, filthy warehouses. “Turkeys, along with other poultry, are not protected by the federal Humane Slaughter Act, and are frequently killed without first being stunned.”
Yummy. Wow, talk about an appetite killer. It’s enough to turn a happy little omnivore like myself into a die hard vegetarian.
OK, I don’t want to purchase one of these birds no matter how much money I’ll save. So what are my options? We’ve all been paying more attention to how our food is grown, raised and where it comes from. For good reason, if you’ve not yet seen the movie or read ‘Food, Inc.’, or read recent exposes’ on America’s food production, it’s time you wake up and smell the pesticides / hormones / and antibiotics.

The opposite end of the cheapo turkey spectrum is the Heritage Turkey. From Sustainable Table; “There is a movement to reintroduce different varieties of turkeys back to the public. Many of these birds originated here in the United States. Groups like Slow Food USA and the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy are working to reintroduce genetically diversified varieties of animals, including turkeys, that were raised years ago. These animals are often referred to as “heritage” breeds. Heritage turkeys are raised outdoors, freely roam on pasture, and eat the varied diet nature intended them to eat, unlike most turkeys today that are raised indoors in confinement and are fed grains, filler and supplements like antibiotics and hormones.”
The heritage turkey is closely related to its wild ancestors; it is heartier, healthier, and capable of natural mating, running, and flying.
According to the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy:

"All domesticated turkeys descend from wild turkeys indigenous to North and South America. They are the quintessential American poultry. For centuries people have raised turkeys for food and for the joy of having them.
Many different varieties have been developed to fit different purposes. Turkeys were selected for productivity and for specific color patterns to show off the bird’s beauty. The American Poultry Association (APA) lists eight varieties of turkeys in its Standard of Perfection. Most were accepted into the Standard in the last half of the 19th century, with a few more recent additions. They are Black, Bronze, Narragansett, White Holland, Slate, Bourbon Red, Beltsville Small White, and Royal Palm. The American Livestock Breeds Conservancy also recognizes other naturally mating color varieties that have not been accepted into the APA Standard, such as the Jersey Buff, White Midget, and others. All of these varieties are Heritage Turkeys.
Heritage turkeys are defined by the historic, range-based production system in which they are raised. Turkeys must meet all of the following criteria to qualify as a Heritage turkey:

1. Naturally mating: the Heritage Turkey must be reproduced and genetically maintained through natural mating, with expected fertility rates of 70-80%. This means that turkeys marketed as “heritage” must be the result of naturally mating pairs of both grandparent and parent stock.

2. Long productive outdoor lifespan: the Heritage Turkey must have a long productive lifespan. Breeding hens are commonly productive for 5-7 years and breeding toms for 3-5 years. The Heritage Turkey must also have a genetic ability to withstand the environmental rigors of outdoor production systems.

3. Slow growth rate: the Heritage Turkey must have a slow to moderate rate of growth. Today’s heritage turkeys reach a marketable weight in about 28 weeks, giving the birds time to develop a strong skeletal structure and healthy organs prior to building muscle mass. This growth rate is identical to that of the commercial varieties of the first half of the 20th century."

With rich tasting meats more moist and flavorful than the mass produced large-breasted turkeys of today, Heritage Breeds owe their taste to diverse diets and extended life-spans. Dining on fresh grass and insects, these birds exercise and even help control farmer's pest problems. And while large corporations have dominated turkey production and breeding since the 1960's, choosing the Broad Breasted Whites because of high breast meat production in a short period, Heritage Breeds have been quietly gaining a renewed market and respect due to their flavor and superior biological diversity.

Raising Heritage Breeds is more costly and time consuming than raising White Breasted Toms. While supermarket turkeys grow to an average of 32 pounds over 18 weeks, Heritage birds take anywhere from 24-30 to reach their market weight. But those who have tasted Heritage Breeds say the cost-and the wait-are well worth it.

OK, the danger of converting to a vegetarian has passed, whew! But at what cost? Holy turkey baster, Heritage turkeys run $6.00 - $7.00 per pound! Which equates to $120 - $140 for a 20 lb bird?? Sorry, no can do. Granted, Thanksgiving comes but once a year, but our standing rib roast for Christmas is less expensive than this bird!



If you're not ready yet to buy a heritage turkey, or can't find one, your other option is to buy an organic and/or sustainable free range bird. An organic turkey is certified by the USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) and must be raised under strict guidelines – no antibiotics, no growth enhancers, only organic feed, and the animals must be given access to outdoors.
 
Farmers who raise sustainable turkeys are not overseen by any group or agency, and have no legal guidelines to follow, though many actually exceed the USDA organic standards when raising their birds. Sustainable farmers look to preserve the land, treat their animals and workers humanely, and help support the local community. 

No doubt this is more than you ever wanted or needed to know about turkeys, but now you're armed with the facts and can choose to purchase whatever bird best suits your Thanksgiving table. Below is a list of prices I collected from the local markets. Some of these prices may change as we get closer to Thanksgiving, as the larger supermarkets will be competing for your business. I've also included a couple of videos from the masters to help you roast a perfect bird.

Whether you're budget allows for the Rolls Royce of turkeys; the Heritage bird, or the well known Butterball, I wish you and yours a fun filled and DELICIOUS Thanksgiving Holiday!


I hope you enjoy our blog, thank you for reading! Please feel free to call or email us should you have any food or cooking questions or if you would like a help finding a special recipe.

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Becky Goldsmith
Becky@beckygoldsmith.com  720-979-3184

King Soopers: They do not carry Heritage or Organic turkeys and I was told fresh turkeys would be available only by pre-ordering as they threw away too many unsold fresh birds last year.
     Kroger frozen $.69 lb
     Private Selection frozen $.99 lb
     Butterball frozen $1.29 lb

Safeway: No Heritage or Organic
     Safeway brand: $7.99 each for 8-16 pounds
     Safeway brand: $10.99 ea for 16-20 pounds
     Safeway brand: $11.99 ea for 20-24 pounds
     Honeysuckle: $11.99 ea for 8-16 pounds    

Sprouts: Zacky's fresh free range $1.49 lb 

Vitamin Cottage: They carry two brands and you must pre-order your turkey. They are out of the Heritage turkeys but have organic and free range turkeys available. All of their turkeys are free range, and hormone and antibiotic free.
Mary's Free Range $2.29 lb
Shelton's Free Range $3.29 lb
Mary's Organic $3.39 lb

Click on the links below for easy step by step instructions on how to prep and roast a beautiful turkey.

This first one is Jacques Pepin and Julia Child, doesn't get any better than these two.
   
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Afdh_i3Kmy0&feature=youtube_gdata_player

This is with Alton Brown, and I think he has a very simple and easy to follow approach to roasting your bird. (He's fun to watch too).
http://www.foodnetwork.com/thanksgiving-turkey-tips-and-how-tos/video/index.html?videoId=85328